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Tuesday, November 29, 2005

Travelogue - Kudajadri: Day 1 n 2

Nov 26, Saturday. Year 2005

Woke up to the snoring sound of KK.
True in every sense..
"Thaakkol kodukkaatharunodhayathil
Thaane muzhangum baliyooralarm" !

Kk had back-ache when he got into the bus
But Aila! Its gone now!
Some good omens (do these words go together)?
(Donno.. Whateva..)

It was 6.30 in the morning.
And ideally, we should have been seated in another
bus, heading for the next point, moving closer to
the destination, in this relay...

The only info that we have is that we are heading
towards 'kundapura' - a strange name for a place..
And a fellow passenger had told us that this is the
last stop for the bus. So no worries.
Hey wait.. But where is that 'passenger' ?
He is not there.. He is not in his seat..

Hmm.. So are we doing right by sitting in our
respective seats, and looking at each other at
intermittent breaks of 12 seconds ? NO

Since KK was at the window seat, that responsibility
comes on to my head. To stand up to the driver's cabin
and to ask in whatever language you know (on second
thoughts, make that 'in whatever language they know')

With the earphones of the hi-fi mp3 players still plugged
into the ears, I walk towards the cabin, attracting
unwanted attention from fellow passengers - galz included.

Rat (to the boy assistant) : Kundapura last stop ?
Boy : Hawthu
Rat : Enthiru ? Hawthu vo ? oh. ok ok.. ok ennu alle.. got it
Rat : Kundapura yeshtu gandey (followed by some wild gestures
which to a 3rd person would remind the crash landing of
an F-16)
Boy : (giggles) talks to the driver.. Then says
: Ombathu gantey
Rat : Jab blub.. muf..
Boy : Nine , sir
Rat : Oh.. ok ok.. enikkappozhey mansailaayi.. potte..

With a victorious smile on face, I walk back.
Doing a bit of balancing act, gets baack to the seat.

KK : Enthaayi ? Eppo ethum ?
Rat : 9 mani (with a lot of air)
KK : Hmm.. Enikkappozhey thonni... 6 manikkonnum ethaan ponilla
ennu
Rat : (manasil) oh pinney.. nee angulathi
Rat : OK. So entha plan ? innu thanne return .. alley ?
KK : Lets see. We'll make decisions on-the-fly

I liked that.
Not everything in life should be planned..
At times, you should go out totally unplanned..
Doing things as and when the situation demands..
There is some adventure, thrill in it.

It was near Udupi, that we opened our eyes from sleep..
Saw NIT, Suratkal on the way.
There was a hault at Kasthurba Medical College, rather
known with the name "Manipal Hospital".

The engine was off.
KK had nature's call. Number 1.
So we get out.
KK asked me to enquire when the bus will leave.
I grabbed the attention of the driver thru some gimmicks
and asked him when we leave. He said in about a minute.
He asked whats the matter. I gestured with my small finger.
He pointed to the rear of the bus.

Kk and I went towards the rear tyre of the bus..
Naay.. this wouldnt be the right spot..
Aah. there is a small pavement at a stone's throw.
We threw a stone and picked the spot. KK watered the plants
and came back relieved.

We returned to find a moving bus - and only ONE moving bus.
That was ours !
Somehow got in and got back to the seat.

The next few hours were spent taking snapshots of the scenery
outside. Took a photo of KK too. Onnum pathinjilla. Camera
off cheythu maati vechu.

Decided to sit peacefully for a while.
Thats when KK sprang up with a desperado look on his face.
KK : Eda.. ennaalum.. Enthellaam pratheekshakal aayirunnu..
Rat : Ngae ?
KK : Avar nammale pattichu
Rat : Aaru ? Aare pattichu ? nee onnu thelichu parayedaa.
KK : Oru kannada padam kaanaam ennu bijaarichaa ee bus thanne
book cheythey.. Padam ittilla :(
Hahahaa... At times, he blabbers some good jokes too..

The driver was spot-on wrt the time..
Reached Kundapura at sharp 9.

Next is a 36km drive to Kollur.
Kollur is the place which houses the Mookambika Devi Kshethram.
36Km converts to an hour's journey (which proved out wrong)

Kiron had told that you get buses to kolur every 2-3 minutes.
Waited for 15 minutes to get a bus.
In the mean time, we did not stand there idle..
Rushed to every single bus that stopped there, and asked this
single word question "Kollur?"
There was something which amuzed both of us equally
All of them said something like "bus barthey.." which
according to our understanding meant "Bus will come".
That was strange as well as helpful..
Normally, you would expect a straight face "No" to that
question..

Well we got our bus at 9.15
Got seated with a Manorama news paper
And slept with the newspaper wide open.

11 o'clock at Kollur.
There is a nice little bus stand there. Seemed to be a new one.
A kid followed us offering a room for 100 rupees.
We collected info about booking counter and jeep service, but
showed no inclination to boarding that room.
Now the room rent dropped by 25 rupees (may be due to the quake
in Iran..) Still we did not oblige.

There was a lodge - Kairali Residency.
The name Kairali seems like a name of trust. Be it Kairali
restaurant or this lodge.
Got a room for a day. The owner said, you hav to be out by 6 in
the morning, coz the room is already reserved by a different party.
We told our plan - that we are leaving the same day.

But there was a problem.
To reach the hill-top (Kudajadri), you need to go by jeep.
(Why only jeep, we got to know soon)
And jeeps leave, only if it is full - 7 passengers.
So if you are lucky to get 5 other fellows, you can cover the
up and down journey at an amount of 150 per head.
Now if you are 'lucky' enuff to be the sole travellers, then
you need to shed 1100 bucks for the trip !

Well, lets c..
We got into the room and finished off the routine (boring) acts.
After the bath, we discovered that we dont hav a comb..
I got out (with KK's purse) and peeped into the first shop.
2 customers already waiting. and a lady doing some DTP inside.
She showed no sign of attending to us.
So I got in, grabbed it by hand (the comb, mind you!) and
stepped out. But the lady demanded something..
"Oh. Sorry", and I paid for the comb.

Dressed funky (apt gear for a temple visit), we stepped out.
KK with a camera hanging from his neck.
Me in a zebra T shirt.

At the jeep stand, we found a jeep-ful, waiting for 2 more..
That was a boon to us (and to them too)
We kept them waitin for 15 mins, and booked the tickets for
Bangalore at 7.30PM, the same day.

Into the jeep.
Fun starts.
A short intro about the situation.
Jeep was all dusty.
The seat, the steering, the glass, everything..
Part of the dust was hidden by the already seated ppl..
An aged couple (in the 40-50's) in the front seat, along
with the driver (who is as thick as Sowji)
An old man (in the farther 50's) in teh back seat.
I'm seated in the same seat.
The opposite seat was crowded - KK was seated there.
And there was a young couple (seeemed newly married)
So much inside the jeep
And there was an acrobat, hanging out on the back door..

NObody talking.
Except for the couple in the front seat.
They were heard saying something in low voice.
After a few 100m in jeep, the driver stopped and got
down at a milk parlor. He ordered for 7 'moru' packets

I thought I'll break some ice (ithinu vendi kurachu ice
njaan veetteennu kondu vannirunnu)
I said "This is a tradition. The driver buys moru packets
and gives it to the passengers. Its part of the package"
All attention on me..
Old Man "Oh REally.. Thats a good custom. May be to get
rid of the vomiting sensation too"
KK laughs out..
KK : Ivan ingane pala mandatharangalum parayum. Ningal
athonnum kaaryamaakkanda.
Rat : glub.. bjub... Athu pinne.. Njaan first time-aa..

Old couple : Njangalum
Old man : Njaanum athey..
New couple : (dint say anything..) They seemed to be a
reserved lot..

Seeing this fun happening, the old man came up with a joke.
"Ithu chilappo vere valla tradition um aayirikkum...
Thenga udakkunnathu pole, mor packet udachittayirikkum
avide pooja"

All smiles..
And relieved that there is something that glues all..
All are mallus !
(This shouldnt have been a Gyan. KK revealed why, later)

The rest of the trip was all fun filled..
After a few kms on the road, the hang-man got out at a
point.
Rat : Kurachu kayinju driver um irangum. Pinne njaan ettu
KK : nga.. nee elkum.. (he opted not to say more.. he
remained decent)

And indeed, the driver got down after some distance.
Rat : Ennaal njaan angottu
KK : Adangi irunnonam avide
Rat : ok :-S

The driver had clear plans when he got down there.
That is the point where the tar-road ends.
The remaining 23 km of the 40 km stretch is on muddy
road - wait.. u cant actually call it road..

The driver lifted the front windscreeen glass.
Rat : Chetto.. ithennaathina ?
Drvr: Glass pokkiyaal kaatundaavum. Ithu cheythillel podi
adichu ningal angethumbozehkkum color maarum
Rat : Haavoo! Ente varshangalaayulla praarthanayaayirunnu..
Anganeyenkilum ee KK de color onnu maarumallo..
Ellam deviyude krupa

Roaring laughter..
The gal also laughed out her heart..
The guy just giggled..
But the rest of the gang were out of control..
Luckily for KK, he was still in control, and my life was
spared.. I will be thankful to him :-)

The way ahead was rock, mud, stones, debris, but NO ROAD !
The question to the driver "Do u pay road tax" was relevant
To drive on that path, you need to be a mountain driver.
The kinda driving u see in Tata Safari ad's..

I got technical
Rat : KK , ithu 4x4 aano ?
KK : alla. 3x3 . mindaathiriyedaa..
Rat : :-S

The seating positions were automatically re-arranged by
the dancing drie. KK was seated opposite that gal. But
by god's craze, err. i mean Grace, nothing happened :-)

Reached the top by 1.30PM
There were a few prathishta's there. visited each of them.
The driver said that we should re-assemble at 3PM at that
spot. Lunch will be ready.

From there, it is a beautiful trek upwards.
The young cpl and the old man took a different route
upwards. KK and me trekked with the old couple..

The man wasnt as old as he seemed.. at least in his thoughts.
He is a business man in Trichur.
He was trekkin in front, far from his wife..
He remarked "Kandille.. Njaanaa cheruppam. Ente stamina
kandille.."
The wife just smiled..
He said "Kandille mukham chuvannu vannirikkunnu.. Ini
ente kaaryam pokkaa.. hahaha"
All smiled...

We took some photos on the way up
With KK in all breath-taking poses
(Breath-holding too, to disguise his tummy)
:D

Mid-way, there was a Ganapathy Guha, where Devi appeared in
front of Sree Sankara. Visited that place.
On top, was the place where Sree Sankara meditated..
That was the peak. Couldnt go any futher..
And it was already 2.45PM

Walked back (for some part, and skidded back for a major part)
The path was very narrow, and a skid in the wrong direction
will end you up in deep land (some 6 km below!)

Back at the starting point.
The young cpl and the old man were already there..
They had taken a different, difficult, steep path upwards.
And got tired soon and walked back..
And were waiting post-lunch.

We got in to a hotel - Mookambika Hotel.
3 benches, 3 desks.
Food on banana leaf.
Plain clean water..
it tasted great (may be 'coz it was the first food since the
previous nite)

After the lunch, the old couple did some pooja at the temple.
Rest of us waited near the jeep. They seated in, kk and me
outside.
thats when a debate started.
Cpl : The place on top is where Sankara appeared before Devi
KK : Its not that way, Devi appeared in front of Sankara
And the argument goes on and on.. And if KK is on one side,
you know, it is not a discussion, it is indeed an argument!

Finally I chipped in
Rat : Nammal thammil tharkkichittu kaaryamundo ?
Avare randu perem kaanuvaanenkil njaan nerittu choyikkam
Ennittu ningale ariyikkaam .. porey ?

:D

They "agreed"

By that time the old cpl was back from pooja.
And we started the downward trek on jeep.

Some time down the path,
Gal : Driver urakkamaa..
Rat : Ayoo chetta.. urangalle.. namukku thamaasha paranjondirikkam
Drvr: Ngae.. ennodaano ?
Rat : nga
Drvr: Njaan kannadachum venamenkil ee route il vandi odikkum
Rat : Innoru change inu kannu thurannodichoode ? Njangalkum athaa
thaalparyam..
Drvr: smiles.. ok..

By the time we reached tar road, it was all dust inside..
Shirt, camera.. pant.. seat.. eyes ! All dust..

When the smooth road came, every one started dozing off..
Not much of talking after that..

Reached the base by 5.
Paid the driver,, and we parted ways..
Back to lodge, a quick bath, and off to the Mookambika Temple
A good temple..
Rock structure..
A huge nila-vilakku..
Pants allowed, no shirts.
I was in a Tshirt, but still, dint go for an argument :-)

There was a young lady doing 'Anna-nada' around the temple.
Anna-nada is a ritual, a nercha to get a good husband, I said.
Kk said "Then let me stop her.. Njan ullappo.. "
Rat : Venda.. Venda.. Anya naattil thallu kollunnathu enikk
ishtamalla.. Naatil aavaam :D
KK : I dont think Anna-nada is to get a good hubby. See that.
There is an old lady doing the same !
Rat : Hmm.. pinnenthinaa.. AAaa..... Whatever..

Back to room.
Quick packing.
Settled the bill.
200m to the Bus stand.
A good bus.. KSRTC Rajahamsa.
Bus started at 7.45
Stopped for Dinner at Kundapura at 9PM
But we already had a masala dosa , after the Temple visit.

Bus started from there at 9.15PM
ZZzz...

Got up at a place called Yashwanthapura.
That is close to my house !
I walked up to the conductor and asked if the bus goes via
Malleshwaram. No. But you can get down close to that.
So I got down at Navrang.
Bid adieu to KK.
20 rupee auto drive to home.
Hope at 8 !

______________

Tailpieces
1. Mookambika temple is visited by a huge majority of mallus
It is said that, the Devi blesses only Mallus..
How mean !!
2. I had packed a whole lot of stuff - shawl, jacket, cap,
extra dress.. which was not required at all! The place
wasnt as cool as I thought.
3. Photos are with KK
4. Hotel Kairali Residency Contact Phone Number : 08254258210

Labels:

4 Comments:

Blogger Rat said...

Yup. It is said that the Devi's blessings work only for Mallus.. For non-mallus, there is no effect. Highly unfair!!

Wed Nov 30, 08:49:00 AM GMT+5:30  
Blogger Rat said...

Hahahaa...
True true...
BTW, got some pix..
Will paste it here.

Thu Dec 01, 08:54:00 AM GMT+5:30  
Blogger rathishv said...

well ratheesh.
am of ur same name and Mtech from CET itself.- Rathish V.

i saw ur kudajadri travalogue.
yaar u shouldnt have stopped at the peak of kudajadri. the real spot is the chitramoola cave, after the peak...going down...down..... do visit there.
catch some photos at http://www.integralbooks.com/mookphoto.htm

Mon Mar 20, 11:47:00 AM GMT+5:30  
Blogger azonic said...

Dude, awesome narration. i would like to know more about the stay option on peak. Should i carry a tent or are there any stay options on the top. I am planning to travel alone and i would like to know know more. It would be great if you can drop in you contact information to my Email- visakh.nair@gmail.com.
Hope to hear from you soon.... Cheers

Sat Feb 13, 12:47:00 AM GMT+5:30  

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